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Caring for softwood: tips for looking after your softwood garden furniture

The Wood Guide · Calculating with wood

From the warehouse and showroom in Lebbeke

Caring for softwood

Spruce, pine and Douglas fir are affordable and warm in character — and they ask for little, as long as you know what they ask for. This is what we tell our customers.

  • For spruce · pine · Douglas fir
  • Half an hour a year is enough
  • Including what you are better off not doing
First understand

Why softwood is different

Conifers grow fast and so their wood stays light and open-fibred. That makes it affordable and easy to work — but it also absorbs water faster than teak or oak. Everything else follows from that.

Softwood that stands outdoors does three things: it absorbs moisture and releases it again (which makes it move slightly), it turns grey under UV light, and without protection it is attractive to fungi and insects. None of the three is dramatic — they are simply predictable. And what is predictable, you can get ahead of.

The essence in one sentence

Keep the wood clean and dry, and make sure there is something on or in it that keeps out UV and moisture. The rest is detail.

Overview of softwood species
Spruce, pine and Douglas fir: different characters, virtually the same maintenance.
All year round

The yearly calendar

Maintenance is not a job for a whole Saturday, but four short moments. This is what is due now.

Now
SpringMarch · April · May
  • A thorough clean with lukewarm water and green soap.
  • Walk round it: tighten loose bolts, sand away splinters.
  • Apply stain or oil on a dry day — this is the moment.
  • Put the furniture on a level, well-draining surface.
Now
SummerJune · July · August
  • Brush it off now and then; dirt in the grain holds moisture.
  • Deal with stains straight away, especially from plant pots.
  • Use coasters and do not let the table dry out in full sun.
  • Wipe it dry after a heavy shower.
Now
AutumnSeptember · October · November
  • Remove leaves — wet leaves on wood are the start of green algae.
  • Check whether water still beads up; if not: touch up.
  • Repair damaged spots before the frost sets in.
  • Get the cover or storage space ready.
Now
WinterDecember · January · February
  • Bring it indoors if you can; otherwise cover it with a breathable cover.
  • Never wrap it airtight — condensation is more harmful than rain.
  • Keep the furniture off the ground, for example on two battens.
  • Air it briefly in mild weather.
What you are better off not doing

No pressure washer and no bleach. The first blasts away the soft fibres between the growth rings and makes the surface rough; the second eats into the fibre and leaves pale patches you can never get out. A brush, lukewarm water and a little patience do a better job.

In pictures · Maintenance in three rhythms

Schematic drawing.

In practice

Maintenance in three rhythms

Not everything needs doing equally often. This is how it looks in practice — most points take minutes, not hours.

In between

A few minutes, now and then

  1. Brush it off. A soft brush removes dirt from the grain — that is where all algae start.
  2. Wipe dry after rain. Especially on tabletops, where water lies.
  3. Use coasters. Otherwise plant pots and glasses leave rings.
  4. Lift, do not drag. Dragging costs you legs and scratches on the tiles.

Once a year

Half an hour in spring

  1. The big clean. Lukewarm water, green soap, soft brush, rinse well.
  2. The walk-round. Retighten bolts, lightly sand rough spots with 120 grit.
  3. The water test. Sprinkle some water: if it beads up, you are fine.
  4. Touching up. Does the water soak in straight away? Then a new coat of oil or stain.

If something goes wrong

Straight away, so it stays small

  1. Scratch or dent. Sand lightly along the grain, touch up locally.
  2. Green algae. Brush off dry, then clean — never with bleach.
  3. Black specks. Usually mould on the coating, not in the wood; clean and treat again.
Two starting points

Pressure-treated or untreated?

The answer determines what you have to do — and above all: what you do not have to do.

Pressure-treated

The protection is already in the wood

A preservative has been forced deep into the fibre under pressure. That protects against rot and insects — for years, without you doing anything. Our picnic tables and beer table sets start out like this.

  • You do not have to treat it.
  • The green or brown tinge fades within one season.
  • Want to control the colour? Wait until the wood is properly dry.
  • Without treatment it weathers to silver-grey — purely colour, no loss of quality.
Untreated

A blank slate — start straight away

Beautiful and fragrant, but completely unprotected. Outdoors every month counts here: start protecting before the first season is over.

  • Start with a wood preservative, then stain or oil.
  • Also treat the underside and the end grain — that is where wood absorbs most.
  • Check and touch up around the first summer.
  • Untreated and unprotected outdoors? Then it will only last a few years.
What with

Oil, stain or let it turn grey

Three valid choices. They differ in work, in look and in how they age.

Fresh wood Oiled — warm and deep Weathered — silver, untreated

Wood oil

Soaks into the wood and nourishes the fibre. Gives a warm, deep colour and leaves the grain tangible.

Work
apply with a cloth or brush, wipe off excess oil
Frequency
usually every year to every two years
Touching up
easy — no sanding needed, oil does not flake

To be fair: oil protects against UV for a shorter time than a pigmented stain. More colour means more protection.

Stain

Lays down a protective coat with pigment. Water-based and transparent keeps the grain visible.

Work
two coats, sand lightly in between
Frequency
depends on the sun; often every two to three years
Touching up
sand where the coat is coming loose, then recoat

To be fair: a coat you leave until it peels makes more work than touching up in time.

Works on all three species in this guide
Or simply: let it turn grey

If you do nothing about the colour, pressure-treated wood turns silver-grey within a few seasons. Many people find that attractive, and structurally nothing is wrong — the treatment keeps doing its job. It does still need to be kept clean.

Working in an environmentally friendly way

Choose water-based stains and biodegradable cleaners, and work on a dry day so you do not have to redo anything. For ordinary cleaning, green soap and lukewarm water are enough — the cheapest and the mildest product there is.

Quick answer

Frequently asked questions

How often should I oil or stain my softwood furniture?

That depends on how much sun and rain it gets. A piece of furniture in full sun usually needs a new coat every one to two years; if it stands sheltered, it can go longer. Look at the wood itself: if water beads up, the protection is still there. If it soaks straight into the board, it is time.

Can I remove green algae or mould from my garden bench?

Yes. First brush the furniture off dry, clean it with lukewarm water and green soap or a cleaner for garden wood, and rinse well. Do not use bleach on softwood: it eats into the fibres and leaves pale patches. Let the wood dry completely before you treat it again.

Which stain or oil is best for spruce?

A water-based, transparent or lightly tinted stain works well on spruce: it protects against UV and moisture while the grain stays visible. If you want a warmer, deeper result, use wood oil — it soaks into the wood instead of forming a film on top.

Does pressure-treated wood need treating too?

Not necessarily. The treatment is in the wood and protects against rot and insects; it does nothing against UV. If you leave it as it is, your furniture slowly weathers to silver-grey — a matter of colour, not quality. If you want to keep the warm tone, stain or oil it.

My table feels rough. Is that a problem?

No. Softwood that gets wet and dries again raises its fibres a little — so after a season it feels rougher. Sanding lightly along the grain with 120 grit and then treating it makes it smooth again.

Further reading

More from The Wood Guide

Knowing which wood you are dealing with makes maintenance much simpler. Our knowledge base explains every species — including the honest drawback.

Unsure about your furniture? Ask your question — we are happy to take a look.

Photo via Wikimedia Commons: Softwood: pine, spruce, larch and juniper side by side — Anonimski, CC0