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What is engineered wood?

The Wood Guide · Calculating with wood

Sheet materials

What is engineered wood?

In the trade also called composite wood or board material: industrially built up from fibres, particles or veneers, held together by glue or resin.

  • Fibre · particle · veneer
  • From MDF to glulam
  • The binder determines the class
engineered wood
Mitred birch plywood: the cross-laminated veneer layers are visible
Mitred birch plywood: the cross-laminated veneer layers are visible
End grain of a laminated beam: five glued lamellae
End grain of a laminated beam: five glued lamellae
Chipboard: fine surface layer, coarser wood chips in the core
Chipboard: fine surface layer, coarser wood chips in the core
Summary

Engineered wood in brief

Materials with properties solid wood cannot offer: a perfectly flat MDF surface for lacquer work, or the spans of glulam beams in modern timber construction.

The production process revolves around one principle: use every part of the tree. Sawdust, fine fibres, thin veneers or coarser wood strands — each raw material fraction leads to a different end product. What solid wood has in figure and feel, engineered wood makes up for in predictability and size.

A solid board two metres wide does not exist; an MDF sheet of 2.80 by 2.07 metres is in every DIY store. And where solid wood moves with the seasons, a well-pressed board stays flat.

Where the strength comes from

In plywood, veneers are glued crosswise, so the weakness of one layer is compensated by the strength of the next. In glulam, lamellae are glued lengthwise into beams that achieve spans no single tree can provide.

Raw material
wood residues, chips, fibres, veneers
Binder
glues and resins
Pressing
under high pressure and temperature
Strength in
size, flatness and predictability
Weakness
moisture and the binder
Also called
composite wood, board material, engineered wood

To be honest: the binder is almost always the weak spot. Moisture makes ordinary boards swell and the glue lines let go, and older formaldehyde resins give off gas. Check the emission class (E1 or better) and the moisture class before you use a board in a bathroom or outdoors.

In pictures · one tree, six kinds of board1 / 8
The principle

Use every part of the tree

Sawdust, fine fibres, thin veneer layers or coarser wood strands — each fraction leads to a different end product, held together by glue or resin.

Click a chapter or use the arrows · cross-sections enlarged, proportions simplified.

From wood residue to board

How a board is made

  1. Collecting raw materialsWood residues, chips or fibres are brought in from sawmills and other processing operations.
  2. Sorting and cleaningThe fraction is screened by size; dirt and bark are removed.
  3. Adding the binderResin or glue is mixed evenly with the dry wood fraction.
  4. Forming and pressingThe mixture is spread into mats or layers and pressed together under high pressure and temperature.
  5. FinishingThe boards are cut to standard size, sanded and, if required, laminated or primed.
Who's who

The variants and what they are for

Material Made of What for
MDF Fine fibres, pressed evenly Lacquered furniture, doors, mouldings — perfectly flat
Chipboard Coarser particles Furniture making, substrates for veneer or melamine
HDF Fibres, pressed harder than MDF Laminate floors, back panels
Plywood Cross-laminated veneers Construction, dimensionally stable, also in damp applications
OSB Large, oriented wood strands Construction, walls and roofs in timber-frame building
Glulam Lamellae glued lengthwise Large spans in load-bearing structures
Each has its own guide

For the details per board: MDF, chipboard, HDF, plywood and OSB.

Deciding

Which board for which job

Indoors, dry

Almost anything goes here

  • Lacquered furniture or door → MDF, for the flat surface
  • Cabinet making with melamine → chipboard
  • Laminate floor or back panel → HDF
  • Visible furniture → plywood with a fine top layer
Damp or outdoors

This is where it gets critical

  • Bathroom furniture → moisture-resistant MDF (green) or plywood
  • Wall or roof in timber-frame building → OSB/3 or plywood
  • Load-bearing structure with a span → glulam
  • Permanently outdoors in all weathers → no board, but solid wood
Solid stays solid

For garden furniture that stays outdoors all year round, no board is a good idea. There solid wood wins, whether it is pressure-treated spruce or teak .

Quick answer

Frequently asked questions about engineered wood

What exactly is engineered wood?

Wood that has been industrially reformed from fibres, particles or thin veneers, held together by glues or resins. In the trade it is also called composite wood or board material — MDF, chipboard, HDF, plywood, OSB and glulam all fall under it.

Is engineered wood stronger than solid wood?

In some respects, yes. Thanks to its cross-laminated layers, plywood is strong in both directions, whereas solid wood is only strong along the grain. Glulam achieves spans no single tree can provide.

Can engineered wood be used outdoors?

Only special grades. Plywood with a weather-resistant glue and OSB/3 can cope with moisture, but for permanent use outdoors in all weathers, solid wood is the right choice.

What does E1 on a board mean?

An emission class for formaldehyde from the binder. E1 is the standard in the EU; even lower emissions are labelled E0 or similar. For bedrooms and children's rooms it is worth paying attention to.

More in The Wood Guide

Engineered wood in perspective

What solid wood has in feel, board material makes up for in size and flatness.

Have a question about your project? Just ask — we're happy to help.

Photos via Wikimedia Commons: Mitred birch plywood: the cross-laminated veneer layers are visible — Lutzeputz, CC BY-SA 3.0 · End grain of a laminated beam: five glued lamellae — メルビル, CC BY-SA 3.0 · Chipboard: fine surface layer, coarser wood chips in the core — Elke Wetzig (elya), CC BY-SA 3.0