Which types of glue are best for woodworking?
The Wood Guide · Calculating with wood
Buying guideWhich wood glue should you use for what?
The right glue makes the difference between a joint that holds for years and one that opens up after a single winter. Five types, five clear profiles.
- PVA · epoxy · PU · CA · animal glue
- Indoors or outdoors decides
- Clamping pressure is no detail
The choice in brief
Every type of glue has its own strengths. The choice depends on three things: where the project will stand, how heavily the joint will be loaded, and which materials you are joining.
A well-glued wood joint is stronger than the wood itself — in a proper test it is not the glue line that fails but the fibres next to it. That only works if three things are right: the right glue, clean and well-fitting surfaces, and enough clamping pressure for the whole curing time.
The species matters too. Oily tropical hardwoods such as teak and ipé contain oils that hinder bonding; wipe them with acetone or methylated spirits just before gluing.
Too much glue and too little pressure. Glue does not fill gaps — a joint that does not close will not be made strong by glue. Make sure the surfaces fit before you open the bottle, and clamp firmly enough that a thin bead squeezes out along the whole length.
- PVA
- water-based · indoors · wood to wood
- Epoxy
- two-part · water-resistant · fills gaps
- Polyurethane
- moisture-curing · outdoors · multiple materials
- Cyanoacrylate
- fast · small repairs · precision work
- Animal glue
- reversible · restoration · historically correct
- Deciding factors
- indoors or outdoors, load, material
To be fair: no glue will save a bad joint. In the long run, wood movement beats every glue line: a solid top that is rigidly glued down will sooner or later crack along the glue. Design so the wood can move, and use glue to join — not to force.
Where will it go?
What are you gluing?
Oily wood (teak, ipe, bangkirai)?
A joint that holds
- Make the faces fit — glue does not make up for poor fitting
- Degrease oily species — teak, ipe, bangkirai: acetone or spirits
- Thin and even — more glue is not stronger, just messier
- Clamp and leave it — as long as the maker says — no shorter
- Remove the excess — PVA after half an hour, once it is rubbery
To be fair: no glue saves a bad joint — and wood movement eventually beats any glue line.
How wood moves →Five glues, five profiles
PVA glue
The everyday hero for indoor wood joints. Water-based, easy to use and very strong wood to wood. There is a D3 version that can cope with moisture.
Epoxy glue
The powerhouse for heavy jobs and water-resistant joints. Two-part, and the only type that can genuinely fill gaps and poorly fitting joints.
Polyurethane glue
The all-rounder. It cures with moisture, is strong and water-resistant, and also bonds to materials other than wood — perfect for outdoor projects.
Cyanoacrylate (superglue)
The quick rescuer for small repairs and precision work. Lightning-fast bonding, but brittle and not suitable for load-bearing joints.
Animal glue
The traditional choice for restoration. A natural protein glue that is reversible — heat and moisture release the joint again, which is essential for antiques.
Which glue for which job
| Type of glue | Indoors or outdoors | Strong for | Less suitable for |
|---|---|---|---|
| PVA (D2) | Indoors | Furniture making, wood to wood | Damp or outdoor uses |
| PVA (D3) | Indoors and sheltered outdoors | Kitchens, bathroom furniture | Permanently wet spots |
| Epoxy | Indoors and outdoors | Heavy loads, filling gaps, repairs | Large surfaces — expensive |
| Polyurethane | Outdoors | Garden furniture, mixed materials | Fine visible work — it foams |
| Cyanoacrylate | Indoors | Small repairs, precision | Load-bearing joints |
| Animal glue | Indoors | Restoration, instrument making | Anything that gets damp |
Outdoors, polyurethane or epoxy is the choice. Ordinary PVA glue lets go under persistent damp, even if the joint seems strong at first. See also garden timber.
A joint that holds
- Make the surfaces fitTwo surfaces that already meet without clamping give the strongest joint. Glue does not make up for poor fitting.
- Degrease oily speciesWipe teak, ipé, bangkirai and other oily species with acetone or methylated spirits just before gluing.
- Apply thinly and evenlyA thin, even coat on one surface is enough. Too much glue does not make it stronger, just messier.
- Clamp and leave itClamp until a thin bead squeezes out along the whole length, and leave it for as long as the manufacturer says — no shorter, even if it already feels firm.
- Removing excess glueWith PVA, after half an hour, once the glue is rubbery: then you can pare it off cleanly. Dried glue will not take stain and leaves pale patches.
Frequently asked questions about wood glue
Which wood glue is the strongest?
Epoxy takes the heaviest loads and is the only one that genuinely fills gaps. For ordinary wood-to-wood joints indoors, PVA is as strong as the wood itself — epoxy gains nothing there.
Which glue is water-resistant?
Polyurethane and epoxy. D3-grade PVA can cope with damp but not with permanent wet. For garden furniture choose PU or epoxy.
Why won't my glue stick to teak?
Because of the natural oils in teak and other oily tropical species. Wipe the surfaces with acetone or methylated spirits just before gluing, and glue straight away.
How long should I clamp?
At least as long as the manufacturer states — with PVA usually thirty to sixty minutes of clamping and twenty-four hours to full strength. Unclamping too early is the most common mistake.
Glue in perspective
The right glue is half the job; good fitting and enough clamping pressure are the other half.
Have a question about your project? Just ask — we're happy to help.
Photos via Wikimedia Commons: Sash clamps holding a glued-up tabletop under pressure — Aerolin55, CC BY-SA 3.0 · Animal glue granules, ready to be dissolved with heat — Simon Eugster, CC BY-SA 3.0
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