What is the difference between pine and spruce?

The Wood Guide · Choosing and comparing

Side by side

Pine or spruce?

You're at the timber merchant and the salesperson asks which one you want. To most people they sound the same — cheap, light softwood. Yet there are differences that should decide your choice.

Pine: heavier, harder, more resin
Spruce: lighter, paler, more even
Outdoors: treat them both

Pinus & Picea

Two pine boards with red heartwood on the left, paler spruce on the right (Pinus sylvestris / Picea abies) — Two pine boards with red heartwood on the left, paler spruce on the rightPinus sylvestris / Picea abies

Wood samples side by side: pine, spruce, larch and juniper (Pinus sylvestris · Picea abies · Larix decidua · Juniperus communis) — Wood samples side by side: pine, spruce, larch and juniperPinus sylvestris · Picea abies · Larix decidua · Juniperus communis

Pine cross-section: reddish-brown heartwood, pale sapwood (Pinus sylvestris) — Pine cross-section: reddish-brown heartwood, pale sapwoodPinus sylvestris

The answer first

In short

In one paragraph

Pine is slightly heavier, harder and more resinous, with more and larger knots and a warmer colour. Spruce is lighter, paler and more even, with smaller knots and little resin. Both are affordable softwoods — but for different jobs, one is the better choice.

The origin

Two cousins from the same family

Both are conifers, but from different genera: pine belongs to Pinus, spruce to Picea. Cousins, then, not brothers — relatives with a character of their own.

PinePinus sylvestris — Scots pine

Origin: Northern Europe, Scandinavia, Russia
Height: up to 35–40 metres
Bark: often reddish on the trunk
Needles: in pairs

SprucePicea abies — Norway spruce

Origin: Central and Northern Europe
Height: up to 40–50 metres
Bark: grey-brown, conical growth
Needles: single, not in bundles

At the timber merchant

How to tell them apart

Put two boards side by side and it becomes obvious straight away — if you know what to look for.

Colour

Pine is warmer: yellowish white to light brown, often with a pink or red glow, and the heartwood can be noticeably darker than the sapwood. Spruce is cooler and paler, almost whitish, with little difference between heartwood and sapwood.

Knots

Pine has more and larger knots, sometimes loose ones that can fall out; they are dark brown to black and stand out strongly. Spruce has smaller, lighter knots that stay firmly in place.

Grain and texture

Pine shows distinct growth rings with strong contrast between earlywood and latewood: lively and varied. Spruce has finer, subtler rings and so looks calmer and more uniform.

Smell

Pine smells clearly of resin, especially when freshly sawn. With spruce that smell is much fainter — one of the quickest ways to tell them apart.

Measurable

The figures side by side

This is where the differences become concrete — important when you have to choose for a specific project.

Property	Pine	Spruce	What that means
Density (air-dry)	480–550 kg/m³	430–470 kg/m³	Pine is sturdier and heavier
Hardness (Brinell)	1.8–2.2	1.2–1.6	Pine is harder and less prone to dents
Bending strength	80–100 MPa	70–85 MPa	Pine sags less readily
Durability class	Class 3–4	Class 4	Neither is durable outdoors without treatment
Resin content	High, especially in knots	Low to moderate	Pine can 'bleed' — resin stains through the paint
Shrinkage and swelling	Moderate (4–6%)	Moderate (4–7%)	Comparable in stability
Price	Pine is usually a few per cent dearer		With pressure-treated timber the difference has all but disappeared

At the workbench

Working it: which is easier?

For the DIYer, this is the difference between enjoying the job and frustration.

Working pine

Harder, but resinous

Sawing: goes well, but watch out for resin building up on the blade — especially at knots.
Planing: fine, although knots can tear out. The hardness blunts tools more quickly.
Screwing: pre-drilling is wise, especially near the edges. Screws hold well.
Gluing: good, but clean resinous spots first.
Finishing: takes paint and stain well, but resin can bleed through — a primer is recommended.

Working spruce

Softer and more predictable

Sawing: very easy thanks to the lower density, with few resin problems.
Planing: very smooth; the even structure means less risk of tear-out.
Screwing: the softer structure makes splitting slightly more likely — pre-drilling is still recommended.
Gluing: excellent, hardly any resin problems.
Finishing: takes stain and paint very evenly, with less risk of blotchiness.

Watch out for the name confusion

The resin content of pine varies greatly with origin. And confusingly, Northern European softwood is sometimes sold as 'Swedish whitewood' when it is actually pine. Look at the knots and smell the wood — that tells you more than the label.

The choice

Which do you choose when?

The subtle differences make each suited to different jobs.

Pine is ideal for

Floors and stair treads (greater hardness), furniture that takes a load, workbenches, shelves that carry weight, and exterior joinery — after treatment.

Spruce is ideal for

Interior joinery, roof structures, light furniture, wall panelling, decorative elements, and anything that will be painted.

Both equally good for

General carcassing timber, shelving and storage, formwork, pressure-treated fencing, garden sheds and budget projects.

And for garden furniture?

There we choose pressure-treated spruce: light enough to move around, strong enough for daily use and, once treated, weather-resistant for years. That's how we build our KING picnic tables — with 40 mm boards — and the ROYAL KING range at 45 mm.

Quick answer

Frequently asked questions

So what really is the difference between pine and spruce?

Pine is slightly heavier, harder and more resinous, with more and larger knots and a warmer colour. Spruce is lighter, paler and more even, with smaller knots and little resin. See also the separate guides on pine and spruce.

Which of the two is better outdoors?

Neither is durable outdoors without treatment. Pine heartwood reaches class 3–4, spruce class 4–5. So outdoors you choose pressure-treated timber — and then simply maintain it well, as described in our maintenance guide.

Why does resin bleed through my paint on pine?

Pine contains a lot of resin, especially around the knots. Heat makes it liquid and it then seeps through the paint layer. Treat resinous spots beforehand with a shellac-based knotting solution or a stain-blocking primer.

Is there a big price difference?

Hardly. Pine is usually a few per cent dearer than spruce; with pressure-treated timber the difference has all but disappeared. So you're better off choosing on properties than on price.

Can I mix them in one project?

Technically you can, but it shows: the difference in colour and knots stays visible, even after staining. For visible work, it's better to stick to one species.

Still in doubt?

We put the most popular choices side by side for you — knowledge first, then choose.

To The Wood Guide Teak or hardwood? Douglas fir or hardwood?

Have a question about your project? Just ask — we're happy to help.

Photos via Wikimedia Commons: Pinus sylvestris / Picea abies — Torbjörn Axelson, Public domain · Pinus sylvestris · Picea abies · Larix decidua · Juniperus communis — Anonimski, CC0 · Pinus sylvestris — Per Vetlesen, CC BY-SA 3.0

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What is the difference between pine and spruce?

Pine or spruce?

In short

Two cousins from the same family